An idyllic childhood in the Italian town of Cherasco, not far from Turin, left a significant mark on Split chef Duje Smajo (29) – both in life and in cooking. He lived there for six years with his parents, Silvija and Tea, who moved to Italy in search of a better life, so he grew up on top-quality dishes based on fish, pasta, tomatoes, and various other fruits from their own garden. He also remembers collecting hazelnuts during walks through town. That‘s why today, as he says, he wants to have ingredients in his kitchen that he produces himself – for example, various vegetables and herbs. He found all of this in the far south, where he took over Dubrovnik’s Natali restaurant, located in the beautiful garden of a Renaissance summer residence. Although they are still developing the Mediterranean garden, next season it will be a true green treasure.
"We will plant everything – from kohlrabi, tomatoes, cucumbers, and zucchini to lemons, basil, and thyme. We already have some things we use in the kitchen, but next season it will be even better," reveals Duje, who in the beginning learned from big names in Croatian gastronomy: Željko Neven Bremec and Hrvoje Zirojević. At first, he washed dishes, but very soon his talent came to the fore, especially in Great Britain at a time when the local gastronomic scene was experiencing a real boom. In England, he had two completely different experiences: at The Angel at Hetton restaurant with Michael Wignall, he adopted discipline, precision, and technical excellence based on French and Japanese principles, while at Petersham Nurseries he learned what it means when nature dictates the kitchen.
"Chefs demanded maximum dedication and long working hours, but in return gave knowledge and experience that shaped me in the long run, not only as a cook but also as a person," recalls Duje, who in England worked up to eighteen hours a day. That wasn‘t a problem for him because he wanted to progress. Duje’s love for cooking was mostly passed on by his grandmother and grandfather, who always had a task for him and his five siblings in the kitchen: someone was cutting, someone was mixing, someone was setting the table...
"That energy and togetherness awakened my first emotions towards food," says Duje, adding that later, his parents ultimately shaped his path the most. His favorite childhood dish was – and remains – cold pasta with tomatoes, olive oil, and parmesan. He says he was always a bit headstrong, but extremely creative – he did graffiti, street art, and sports, which ultimately influenced his current gastronomic expression. On his professional path, he especially highlights his experience at Zagreb’s Noel restaurant, run by the experienced chef Mario Mandarić.
"It was more than cooking – it was my personal development. Mario and I share a similar view of gastronomy, and working together helped me mature as a person," says chef Smajo, who now wants to bring what he learned at Noel, and in other restaurants where he worked, to Dubrovnik’s Natali. There, he is developing a concept of sustainability, seasonality, and authenticity, which he became aware of in early childhood. Currently in Dubrovnik, he works with local family farms and trusted suppliers, but their plan is to become as self-sustainable as possible. The menu is based on fish and seafood, with meat and vegetarian options, and for now, the restaurant operates à la carte. In the future, Duje is seriously considering a tasting menu, as there are many young and creative people in the restaurant.
"On the menu, for example, we have poached turbot fillet in lemon oil with a vongole sauce and trout roe, then lamb, duck, caviar, tartlets with mushrooms, celery, and kohlrabi noodles. Our wine list covers almost all of Croatia," emphasizes Duje, who seeks inspiration every few months in Michelin-starred restaurants. In his free time, he prefers to cook whatever he finds at the market that day – eggplants, tomatoes, and various pastas – and at home, he prepares simple dishes that take him back to his roots.
"I also like to show the staff that any ingredient can be turned into a top-quality dish, as long as you approach it with respect. That’s the message I want to weave into the future of the Natali restaurant," concludes Duje Smajo.
Steak Tartare
INGREDIENTS
- red onion,
- pickles,
- garlic,
- capers,
- parsley,
- ketchup,
- mayonnaise,
- sriracha sauce,
- mustard,
- salt,
- pepper,
- smoked paprika,
- 14 ml stock,
- 140 ml Worcestershire sauce,
- 80 g steak,
- potato chips,
- olive oil,
- fleur de sel
PREPARATION
Mix all ingredients with the steak, then top with potato chips. Serve with toasted bread from the grill and whipped porcini butter.
Lobster Ravioli
INGREDIENTS
Ravioli dough
- 200 g type 00 flour,
- two or three egg yolks (depending on size),
- half a tablespoon olive oil
Ravioli filling
- 20 g lobster tail,
- 20 g turbot belly, skinned,
- parsley,
- garlic,
- shallot,
- olive oil,
- satay (a blend of espelette pepper, coriander seeds, cardamom, dried garlic, salt, muscovado sugar),
- chive emulsion and bisque sauce for serving
PREPARATION
Cook the ravioli for four to five minutes. In a separate bowl, place the lobster tail, turbot, and satay, and sauté the shallot and garlic, then cool. Add to the mixture and add chopped parsley. Cool the ravioli filling before use. Fill the ravioli with the mixture and serve with chive emulsion, bisque sauce, and toasted pine nuts.
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