Matija Bogdan is one of the best Croatian chefs. That might be easy to forget considering his relatively frequent media presence in various roles – whether due to his recently much-discussed appearance on one of HTV’s most-watched Sunday shows, his extremely risky ascent of Ama Dablam last autumn, one of the greatest mountaineering challenges ever, which also received considerable publicity, or because of his excellent articles in Dobro Jelo where he reports first-hand on the world’s most interesting restaurants. It’s also easy to forget because of his simple, punkish personality that doesn’t try to please anyone and for whom there are no higher authorities that don’t deserve to be questioned.
Matija Bogdan, that wiry Međimurje native of small stature and shrill voice, however, besides being an uncompromising critic of everything in his profession that isn’t “as it should be”, from which his exemplary upbringing somehow always saves him, today cooks better than ever.
As executive chef at two Aminess restaurants on the Adriatic that bear his name, 7 Seas by Matija Bogdan, on Korčula and in Njivice on Krk, he has in these three years already left a deep mark, not only on the islands – which is important – but also on the gastronomy that lives under hotel roofs in Croatia.
The restaurants in Korčula and Krk differ most in that one is part of the Aminess Younique Korčula Heritage Hotel, while the other is in an independent building in Njivice, right on the shore – the sea literally splashes a small pebble beach in the middle of the restaurant. The Njivice restaurant therefore has a more relaxed, independent status, and when you add a more spacious kitchen that allows for better logistics, it’s clear that Bogdan has found more room for creativity here.
On the new menu, which we had the opportunity to try at the beginning of June, all this is very much apparent. To begin with, it must be said that this is perhaps the best value for money you can find in Kvarner – eight courses for 125 euros of authentic, carefully thought-out fine dining plates inspired by local tradition, at the same time technically perfect and conceptually and visually playful, an experience that until recently was not possible even on our most developed island. (All due respect to Rivica, which has stood for decades as a bastion of traditional cuisine and always aimed for a higher level of gastronomy).
Matija Bogdan brought to Krk experiences gained around the world, from San Francisco through London and Paris to Scandinavia, creating images on plates that also allowed for the development of his own concepts, some of which were developed back in Zagreb’s Mano.
Although that afternoon, on a Tuesday in mid-June, there weren’t many guests so we got a table literally above the sea, it’s still recommended to book in advance for this experience.
To start, we were offered a glass of perfectly chilled, light, and elegant Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve Champagne, and very soon came the amuse-bouche: scampi mayonnaise with blue crab meat, and gratinated potato with beef tartare and salmon roe.
Then, on a wooden platter, on white linen between two miniature gardens of local Mediterranean herbs and flowers, a third canapé, presented to us by chef Bogdan himself: Krk prosciutto from the Žužić family, a bit of creamy goat cheese, foie gras (“for elegance”), a delicious combination between two crunchy, crispy chips made from acorns (which, Bogdan points out, were quite used on Krk in the past), sprinkled with green and purple powder – made from all the dehydrated green vegetables they have in the kitchen and dehydrated purple cabbage. Dinner could begin.
The first cold starter immediately demonstrated Bogdan’s ambition and aesthetic orientation: fresh Kvarner scampi meat on a basil emulsion, with tomato jam on the side. It sounds simple, but even the first glance reveals a very complex dish: a meticulously designed mini garden full of details about which Bogdan, as we remember from Mano, is almost obsessive. And while once, despite great flavors, he might have visually danced on the edge of kitsch, today it’s all done with much more finesse, elegantly and measured. Pearls, flowers, a whole Mediterranean botanical garden, and nothing in excess. The tomato consommé poured over the scampi at the table brings extra freshness as well as delicious umami. The jam, of course, is not really a jam, but the small slices of tomato in a thick sweet sauce are irresistible. Pine nuts are nicely incorporated, as is samphire. Everything was beautifully accompanied by Wittmann’s Riesling 2022. The wine pairing here, as it turns out, is very good, and you can choose Croatian or sommelier’s choice.
Next comes tuna carpaccio – belly of Adriatic bluefin tuna cut into thin slices, between which is kohlrabi baked in herb pastry, and over all is tartare made from the rest of the tuna with ikura, i.e., trout roe seasoned with a bit of mirin, soy, sake. At the bottom is a smoked mussel cream. For extra freshness, the carpaccio is poured at the table with a buttermilk and tarragon oil sauce. This beautiful plate, or rather bowl, was presented to us by operational chef Marko Buzuk, and in our glasses was already New Zealand’s Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc 2023.
Before the next course, another amuse-bouche arrives: on a wooden tray, again with a small botanical garden, hot potato buns, and next to them a plate with seven balls of butter with charcoal and burnt lemon – we could hardly wait for the buns to cool enough to eat.
The ever-present service manager and sommelier, Zagreb native Krešimir Haller, who is in charge of the pairing, brings the wine for the next course: Enjingi’s white Venje 2015.
And the next course is lamb tartare, lamb fillet, seasoned with yeast for extra umami. There are also two creams: one of black olives, the other of smoked and burnt leek, and everything is wrapped in mint gel. Along with the lamb roll are cubes of lacto-fermented fennel, and for freshness, a whey sauce. On the side is a fried ball of Pag cheese. This dish, also firmly tied to locality (the lamb is from Cres), is already a classic, on the menu for the second year running – understandably, guests keep asking for it.
The next course demonstrates the chef’s playfulness and tendency to experiment – all the ingredients on the plate are local, except for the spices he brings from his travels, in this case from Nepal. The scallop from Novigrad is stuffed with algae, below is a bit of carrot baked on hay, then pickled carrots, cucumber infused with dill, kombu seaweed, and everything is served in a foamy vadouvan, the French version of curry they make themselves here. In this kitchen, it’s clear, they’re not afraid of spices, for which this chef once again shows a great sense.
And while, after a delicious bite, we enjoy a glass of Krauthaker Chardonnay Rosenberg, watching the sun dip lower over Učka from the terrace above the sea, another “postcard” from the chef’s travels arrives, this time from Mexico. Bogdan himself says this is the most popular dish on the menu this summer, and they can’t make enough of it to meet demand. The idea of soparnik here is connected to the Mexican taco tradition: between two thin doughs, in addition to chard, they put Velebit Runolist cheese, lamb belly, leafy salads, a bit of pickled vegetables… With extras as desired – fermented chili purée and homemade crème fraîche – this dish is meant to be eaten by hand, so alongside extra napkins, there’s also a finger bowl for greasy fingers. Colorful, fun, crazy, very tasty, and actually genius – no wonder it’s the most popular. We paired it with Šipun’s Sansigot 2021, a wine from the traditional Krk red variety.
Next up are the final two courses, the main dishes. First, a tender venison loin – the most beautiful cut of meat without which Bogdan didn’t want to be even at Mano – cooked medium rare. On the plate: potato with shallot emulsion and parsnip chips, roasted cabbage covered with purple cabbage powder, roasted leek, and cauliflower crumble, and with this plate, a jus is served. And, quite fittingly, Baraka Babić 2021.
The second main course is pressed Angus, one of those cuts of beef neck that aren’t so popular because they might need a bit more chewing, but reward you with a full, juicy meaty flavor. It’s served with an excellent black trumpet and truffle purée, and with lion’s mane mushroom, which Bogdan has already written in Dobro Jelo is one of his favorites. This dish is perfectly paired with the concentrated, powerful John Duvall Entity 2021 Shiraz from Australia’s Barossa Valley.
Dinner ends, with a spectacular sunset, the evening sound of waves, and sweet Chateau Delmond Sauternes, with two desserts. Cheesecake made from Pag ricotta is topped with sage honey crumble and black olive powder, served with Pag ricotta ice cream and Jerusalem artichoke cream. Vanilla custard tart is served with rose petal and black currant sorbet.
Both desserts are restrained in sweetness, impeccably made and finely balanced in flavor, a perfect end to an excellent dinner in which every segment worked in harmony. High-level cooking that, as Matija Bogdan himself admits, cannot be achieved in the Korčula restaurant, unlike this one in Njivice, for various technical reasons; excellent and well-thought-out wine pairing; impeccable, attentive, timely, relaxed, and pleasant service; and finally, an atmosphere and experience that few restaurants on the Adriatic can offer in season.
Just a two-hour drive from Zagreb, 7 Seas by Matija Bogdan offers an extraordinary summer experience: almost with your feet in the sea, with a spectacular view of Kvarner and Istria, the guest here has the opportunity to enjoy excellent dishes arising from an unusual culinary philosophy. Matija Bogdan’s plates are not simple, there are always many elements, but despite their complexity, it’s not a cacophony – all the individual flavors in the dish are clearly felt, ultimately creating perfect harmony. Bold, almost wild, yet precise and elegant. Moreover, all eight courses (which in the end become about ten) come in a fine, relaxed, ascending sequence which, although full of surprises, is completely logical. All these are hallmarks of great chefs, those who don’t blindly follow trends but constantly learn, gather experience, and then serve you a dinner you’ll remember for a long time.
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