If you’ve ever been to Naples, you’ve probably tried Neapolitan pizza. That’s not surprising, since there are more pizzerias per square meter in Naples than there are people. Because of this, a multitude of different pizza styles have developed there. Still, the Neapolitan style stands out in particular, which has conquered the whole world, including Croatia. That style, roughly, is recognizable by its puffy crust and higher dough hydration (although it doesn’t always have to be 80%, since then we’re entering substyles). Dough fermentation often lasts longer, resulting in a characteristic texture and flavor. In short, it’s a pizza with a chubby, soft, and air-filled crust.
However, as the Neapolitan style became extremely popular worldwide, more and more pizzerias are trying to imitate it, often neglecting the original rules and tradition. Because of this, the original idea and authenticity of Neapolitan pizza are gradually being lost, and many versions offered today only superficially resemble the real thing.
Still, there are clear rules in making Neapolitan dough. For example, everything is strictly defined, from the type of flour, such as the Italian type 00, to the precise water ratio, i.e., hydration, and the long fermentation that lasts at least 8, and often 24 hours or more, usually at a controlled temperature. The dough is kneaded to a precisely determined, smooth, and elastic texture, and the dough balls shaped by hand must weigh between 200 and 280 grams to get a pizza of the prescribed diameter. Neapolitan dough is devilishly hard to master, harder than other styles, especially when entering subtypes with higher hydration and even longer fermentation (which, again, is not necessary).
People often ask us if pizza in Naples is really that good. Our answer is always the same. The "worst" pizza you’ll eat in Naples, on some remote corner, is just as good, if not better, than the best ones baked here. We’re not exaggerating. Besides years of honing their craft, in Naples they use better ingredients for that pizza style. If you don’t believe us, head to Naples and see for yourself.
What does all this mean? It’s simple. If a pizzeria in Croatia wants to have the best possible pizza, it’s necessary to use Italian flour, peeled tomatoes, and cheese—the three most important ingredients. That’s exactly why the best Croatian pizzerias today work on that principle. Without those key ingredients, it’s impossible to achieve the taste and quality of Neapolitan pizza.
In researching what makes Neapolitan pizza better than others, pizzaiolo and consultant Ivan Šetka also walked through Naples. For those not in the know, this man is one of the more important names on the Croatian pizza scene. He led the Franko’s team when they took a high 14th place on the list of the best in Europe, outside Italy. But above all, Ivan Šetka is a great pizza enthusiast.
After several years of working at Franko’s, Šetka wanted to change things up. As he told us, he didn’t get tired of Franko’s, he still values them and everything they do very much, but he wanted to do something different. And he did. Four weeks ago, on the island of Pag, in the town of Pag itself, together with Martina Bušić and partners, he launched a project he had been thinking about for a long time. It’s a special place the likes of which Pag has never seen before.
Here you can finally try the kind of pizza that’s offered in many places in Naples. Ruota di carro, as it’s baked in the venue, is a traditional Neapolitan pizza of large diameter (over 35 cm). It’s thin, goes beyond the edge of the plate, with a low but extremely airy crust. Its texture is light and crispy at the bottom, yet soft and elastic at the same time due to fermentation that lasts up to a maximum of 24 hours at room temperature. There are no refrigerators. It sounds simple, but a lot can go wrong.
Most of the important ingredients, as we hinted, come from Italy, which guarantees a top-notch pizza base. That’s the whole point, a minimal amount of premium ingredients on the pizza. We tried two, and both were excellent. Maldini’s Buffala (€13.5) is a fantastic example of simplicity on pizza. With excellent mozzarella, this pizza is a true example of a small departure from the classic. Bechem’s Diavola (€14.6) is also a classic take on spicy pizza. With ‘nduja and kulen, small hot peppers, it’s great for those who want something spicy before jumping into the sea (the pizzeria is literally next to the beach). The dough itself is excellent, just like we’ve eaten several times in Naples. Crispy, airy, and light. The shape of the pizza is irregular, which some may not like, but we really enjoy it.
The drink offer also follows the football and local story. Even now, they have a very interesting cocktail list named after the world’s greatest stadiums. We tried the ‘Parc des Princes‘ with teranino, lemon foam and juice, a great refreshment for a hot summer day. Soon, as they told us, they plan to significantly expand the wine list, with a special focus on wines from the island of Pag and Zadar County, which will further round out their story. The place is further connected to Naples, decorated with jerseys of famous footballers, with Diego Maradona’s standing out in particular. Šetka told us how the idea for such a pizzeria came to him when one sleepless night he sat in front of Maradona’s mural.
Besides excellent pizzas and some dishes for tourists, the pizzeria’s concept is hidden in guest appearances and spreading the top pizza scene in Croatia. Guest appearances and pizza schools, as Šetka told us, are their goal. They want to create a community of pizzaiolos who come as guests, offering their own pizza combinations and skills, thus creating a large community of people who share a passion for pizza. The first guest appearance was with Zagreb’s pizzeria Shango, which unfortunately we didn’t attend because we arrived a day earlier. Still, we have no doubt that the talented duo from the Sveti Duh pizzeria offered something special to the residents and visitors of the town of Pag these days.
So, if you find yourself on the island of Pag, D10’s Pizza Fantasista is definitely worth a visit. The team behind the place has a clear vision and brings something new to the local scene. The pizza is excellent, just like the one we’ve tried several times in Naples. If you’re a pizza lover, pizzaiolo, or want to learn about pizza, maybe you’ll one day take part in guest appearances and enrich the Croatian pizza scene yourself. The place will be open all year round, which is another good reason to come to the stone town and the island of Pag.
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