DeMar Winery is one of the youngest in Hilly Croatia, probably the youngest, and their path to market recognition and success is completely outside the usual patterns, as they had neither significant family tradition, nor experience gained from working for other wineries, and ultimately, not even significant capital to buy knowledge and technology, like some wealthier entrepreneurs who choose the wine business.
The owners, Mario Funtek and Dejan Levanček, from whose names the name DeMar is derived, were entrepreneurial enthusiasts in 2016 whose decision to try to turn a shared hobby into a business and start a small boutique winery was a classic adventure with little certainty. Without a brand, experience, or knowledge, as complete outsiders, they plunged into the most competitive market race in the world, as the number of competing wine labels in the global wine world is counted in millions.
Contrary to all realistic expectations, just six years after that decision, recognition arrived that made them realize they had succeeded, that their project was here to stay, and that they would one day be able to leave it to their heirs. A big news arrived in their email from London—they had won their first gold medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards, the largest wine competition in the world. The gold medal itself is no guarantee of anything except quality, and it doesn‘t sell wine by itself, but for Mario and Dejan it was confirmation that their understanding of wine was based on the right values, and that the path to market realization after that was just a matter of persistence and patience. Considering the boutique volume of the winery of only 20,000 liters annually at its inception, they could not afford to hire an experienced oenologist or agronomist, so they quickly learned from consultants and absorbed others‘ experiences and opinions. The first and second harvests were full of beginner mistakes, but after that, things got serious.
Tasting their complete portfolio became a valuable experience that showed they recognized in which varieties and types of wine the true potentials lie. They also made several wines that cater to the broadest population, primarily in the form of two muscats, to ensure a steady cash flow and time to dedicate to signature wines and varieties that offer the most in the Ludbreg vineyard area—namely graševina, riesling, and pinot grigio. Then, in 2022, confirmation arrived that they were on the right track, in the form of Decanter gold for Graševina from 2020.
The recognitions didn‘t stop there, as with their Riesling they won the title of champion of the regular harvest and high gold at the Urbanovo festival, and then the title of champion at the PodraVINA exhibition. At Decanter, they continued to earn scores of over ninety points for other wines, proving that the initial success was not a fluke and that, after only nine years of existence, in the subregion of Zagorje - Međimurje, they have become one of the leading wineries in terms of wine quality. Success at Urbanovo, where they claimed the champion title among all the leading wine families of Međimurje, and then in London, where graševina and riesling were repeatedly recognized as excellent, is a clear confirmation of their achieved ambitions and excellence. A new era begins with the move from a small cellar in the vineyard to a larger—but still boutique—one in their hometown, where they built a winery that provides all the prerequisites for further development and progress.
DEMAR GRAŠEVINA AUREUS 2023
Price: 10 euros
Quality: 92/100
A graševina that embodies all the beauty of the variety. Harvested a little later from vineyards on southern slopes, just a shade overripe, resulting in more opulent aromas. After controlled fermentation, it was partially aged in wood and partially in stainless steel, for added structure and longevity. Ripe apricots mix with honey notes on the nose, and in the mouth, it is gentle, rounded, full-flavored despite its elegant body. Dried fruit and floral notes on the aftertaste. An excellent wine. 12.5% alc.
DEMAR RIESLING 2022
Price: 12.5 euros (at the winery)
Quality: 93/100
An exceptional riesling that scored 91 points and silver at Decanter and the champion title at Urbanovo. This is a riper type of riesling, which has nothing in common with German, nor even Austrian, styles. Above all, the acidity here is more moderate, and the wine is of a riper character. The deeper golden color shows it is a wine from a later harvest. It is creamy and rounded, with a noble riesling tertiary that here is not classically directed towards petrol, but more towards moss and an old wine cellar, underpinned by floral and honey notes and candied lemon. On the finish, the aftertaste brings seductive candied pineapple, lime, and a mild note of spiciness. Very layered and with potential for further aging.
DEMAR PINOT GRIGIO 2023
Price: 10 euros
Quality: 90/100
Macerated pinot grigio, pinkish copper color. It was macerated for about two to three days, then aged in wood for a full year, so that the reddish color turned into the recognizable pinot with a copper hue. This also influenced the aroma and taste. The flavor is rounded and soft, somewhat creamy, and at the same time with attractive fruity juiciness, typical for pinot grigio. The aroma is very layered, with lots of stone ripe fruit, then clear spicy notes from the wood, as well as sweet marzipan hints. The vertical structure indicates longevity and complexity, with the depth and sweetness of macerated wines. 12% alc.
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