Inside the 17th-Century Fortress Now Croatia’s Most Enchanting Hideaway

In the silence of Vrana, between the blue of Lake Vrana and olive groves stretching as far as the eye can see, stands Maškovića Han - a monumental building from the 17th century whose stone walls remember trading caravans, soldiers, and travelers from the East. Once a caravanserai started by Jusuf Mašković, today it is one of the rare places in Europe where you can spend the night within walls built more than three centuries ago, while enjoying the comfort of a luxury hotel, excellent gastronomy, and an almost idyllic atmosphere of the Dalmatian hinterland. At the beginning of March this year, the Han got new owners: the celebrated Croatian footballer Šime Vrsaljko and his cousin, the well-known Zadar restaurateur, Andrej Vrsaljko. For them, this was not just a business venture.

“The motivation was not exclusively business; it was a combination of respect for history, personal emotional connection to this region, and a desire for this unique place to receive the attention and content it deserves,” says Andrej Vrsaljko in his own name and on behalf of his cousin Šime.

“As someone whose family comes from Nadin, a nearby place, we feel a responsibility to this area, not only as investors and new owners but also as people who understand its significance for the entire region. This is our heritage and our identity,” Andrej tells us sincerely as we sit in the courtyard, under the thick canopy from which the chirping of birds echoes. This is a silence that, nowadays, just half an hour from Zadar or Šibenik (yes, the Han is located exactly halfway), is hard to find…

As Andrej explained to us, Šime and he have taken over the management of the hotel, restaurant, and the newly opened bar. The Han also includes a reception and a small gift shop, museum, spa area, administrative building with offices, and a small conference room. All of this needs to be taken care of.

Meeting of East and West

From day one of the takeover, he says, they had a clear vision: to make Maškovića Han a cultural and tourist point of excellence. “We want guests to feel the authenticity of this place, but also the comfort of a modern hotel. This is a place where East and West, past and present, meet, and that is exactly what we want to highlight in every detail. Our goal is to create a location that connects history, culture, and luxury accommodation with a top-notch gastronomic experience. It is a place for all the senses, for those seeking peace and enjoyment away from the public eye, from city bustle and tourist chaos,” Andrej explains.

This concept can be seen today in every corner of the complex. Alongside 16 beautifully and carefully decorated hotel rooms, the restaurant ‘Timar‘ was opened upon their takeover, with an emphasis on local ingredients with a modern approach. However, perhaps the most special part of the story is hidden a few steps further: in the space of the old Turkish hammam from the 17th century, where the restaurant annex, the bar ‘Timar‘, is located.

“Drinks are served without electricity, only by candlelight. The atmosphere is intimate, almost mystical. We think there is no similar bar in the country… Additionally, every cocktail is designed especially for this place, so that the guest experiences what we like to call the ultimate dining experience. For us, dinner never ends with dessert; the story always continues,” explains Matea Magaš, in charge of public relations and events. As she explained to us, immediately after the takeover, they started designing new programs.

“This year, for the first time, we are organizing ‘Summer at the Han’, music evenings every weekend until the end of September, with young musicians and DJs who give our summer evenings a special rhythm. Our plan is to have themed evenings after summer, special retreats, team buildings, various interesting workshops, and guest appearances by renowned chefs –” says Magaš, adding that many newlyweds have already recognized this place as the perfect location for their special day.

Big plans

“Our goal is for the Han to be alive throughout the year, and not only as a tourist facility, but as a place of experiences. This winter we will organize our first Advent, something that no one has yet tried here, in this historic building,” concludes Magaš. Andrej leads us through the beautiful stone arches located in the center of the building, and introduces us to a completely different dimension: from the green courtyard, we stepped into a completely stone ‘street‘ full of flowers. Here you will find the rooms, and since they have no balconies, we made small private terraces in flowers and created this street as everyone now calls it,” Andrej explains with a smile and adds: “Rarely anywhere in Europe can you spend the night within 17th-century walls, in a space that was once a military frontier caravanserai, and today is a hotel with an excellent restaurant and an atmosphere that soothes. We think that this peace is our greatest advantage,” Andrej emphasizes, adding that the combination of historical heritage and contemporary luxury, immersed in the peaceful atmosphere of Vrana, is exactly what sets them apart.

The plans are equally ambitious for next season: a completely renovated wellness will be opened, and the main attraction will be a rooftop pool with a view. Everything, he emphasizes, is done in agreement with conservators. “We leave nothing to chance! It is important to us what the experts say,” he is clear. For the Vrsaljkos, both Andrej and Šime, the story of the Han also has a strong emotional dimension. “This was not a cold business move, but a return to our roots,” says Andrej, recalling an interesting historical connection: Jusuf Mašković, the builder of the building, was also born in Nadin. “Before he became the supreme commander of the Turkish army, he was a poor stable boy for beg Bećiragić – right in ‘our place‘,” he concludes with a smile.

A woman’s touch behind the special atmosphere

A special stamp on the new life of the Han was given by Helena Vrsaljko, Andrej’s wife, who decorated the annex of the ‘Timar‘ restaurant and the bar of the same name. After more than a decade spent working on cruise ships, traveling the world with Andrej and drawing inspiration from exotic gardens and world bars, she returned to her native Zadar and combined her two passions – floral design and mixology.

“The space of Maškovića Han has a strong character and historical weight, and I wanted to respect that. I didn’t want to change its structure, but to complement it with details that highlight its oriental soul – lanterns with warm, dimmed light, plenty of candles that create an intimate atmosphere, special vases, and lots of plants and flowers,” describes Helena. She arranged the table decorations by combining Dalmatian herbs, which she picked herself around the Han, with exotic species. But Helena is not only responsible for decorating the bar and restaurant. When newlyweds choose Maškovića Han for their wedding, they also get her as a decorator. That means they don’t have to look for an additional organizer for floral arrangements and venue decoration – an advantage that saves time and money, but also guarantees top-notch aesthetics.

“The cocktails were created in a similar way: by combining the familiar and the unexpected. I used local ingredients, spices, and scents that inspire me locally, and combined them with flavors from distant lands, mostly the East, to incorporate them with the history of the place. So every cocktail, just like every floral arrangement, becomes a story,” concludes Helena.

At Maškovića Han, history is not kept under glass: here you drink from a glass, eat from a plate, feel it under your fingers, and breathe it in every detail. And most importantly – it lives!