We visited Gostionica Ficlek in Zagreb for an early lunch. We arrived just before the rush, so we immediately got a table inside, while the terrace was already full except for a few tables in the sun. The interior of the restaurant exudes Zagreb‘s retro charm: old cabinets, paintings, interesting tiles, and details reminiscent of our grandmothers‘ apartments. Mirrors opposite the bar create a sense of spaciousness in a relatively small area, which seats up to about 20 people, including the bar seating. All the tables and chairs inside are high and quite uncomfortable for longer sitting, which is a classic restaurant trick to keep guests from staying too long.
We started with two elderflower juices (€2.80) poured directly from the tap, which means the chilled liquid is stored under the bar. Although the juice was perfectly fine, it was a bit bland. It‘s a little surprising that a place aiming to create a homemade atmosphere, both through its interior and cooking, serves drinks as if in a fast food chain.
For the starter, we had the classic Zagreb ajngemahtec (€5.80), which was very tasty, but we noticed a difference compared to the traditional version: it lacked the slight thickness usually provided by flour and chicken giblets that give it a special touch. It was also a bit too salty—not dramatically so, but noticeably. The bread we ordered additionally was excellent and obviously homemade, which helped since the dumplings from the soup were scarce and forgettable.
Although the number of staff was surprisingly large for the size of the space, everyone was extremely kind and professional. During lunch, we intentionally changed our order and requested an extra side dish just to test their flexibility, and the response was excellent. To test the service, we ordered abšmalcane green beans (€5.50), a dish synonymous with Zagreb cuisine.
Main courses included tafelspitz with mashed potatoes and horseradish sauce (€14.40) and the Zagreb steak (€15.20), a version that combines Viennese and French styles. The tafelspitz was served in a deep plate with a very tasty broth, though again a bit too salty. An extra plate was missing, as eating large pieces of meat from a soup bowl is not the most practical. The meat was tasty but could have been more tender, which could easily be achieved by longer cooking.
A similar remark applies to the Zagreb schnitzel, for which the meat would be better if a meat tenderizer was used. In addition, visually it resembled more a Karađorđe schnitzel, usually filled with kajmak, than the classic Zagreb version. Alongside the nicely breaded schnitzel, from which a large amount of melted cheese oozed out, came rizi-bizi, the traditional combination of rice and peas, technically correctly cooked but somewhat bland and watery. A bit of salt, butter, and fresh herbs (e.g., dill) would significantly improve the impression.
Unfortunately, the test with the green beans did not go well. Although they arrived very quickly, that‘s where the compliments end. We were served two types, green and yellow. The green ones were almost perfectly cooked, while the yellow ones were overcooked. The taste was distinctly watery and weak, as if the beans were frozen or not very fresh. In addition, there were too many breadcrumbs and too little butter, which ironically resulted in a contrast between the dryness of the crumbs and the tasteless moistness of the beans that simply did not work. It‘s a pity that a place that cherishes classic recipes and wants to be the embodiment of Zagreb gastronomy does not know how to prepare one of the most Zagreb dishes, and not a particularly complicated one at that.
Aside from technical difficulties, it‘s hard to overlook the faux pas with the freshness of ingredients in a restaurant located 57 meters from Zagreb‘s main market. In the end, we had two strudels, one with apples and the other with sour cherries (€4.20). Although both were a little overbaked, the flavors were very good. The apple one pleasantly surprised us, and the cherry, although darker and with a different dough, was solid.
All in all, the experience was very pleasant and the food generally satisfactory. The price-quality ratio is the biggest advantage of this unpretentious and charming place that tries to maintain the local cooking tradition in a sea of restaurants trying to be trendy. We also got the impression that Ficlek is sitting on two chairs at once, homemade cuisine and fast food, and would progress if it decided which one is more important. While we observed other dishes at neighboring tables—breaded chicken, hunter‘s schnitzel, and stuffed peppers—we thought that maybe we didn‘t order the best the kitchen has to offer, which we will definitely correct in the near future. But we came with a mission: to test how much of ‘old Zagreb‘ is really present in Ficlek. And indeed, there is quite a lot. Only, occasionally, a symbolic slap on the wrist with a wooden spoon would be welcome, so that this place could become what it potentially can be: an icon of Zagreb gastronomy.
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