Already somewhere after the second bend, when the asphalt starts to wobble under the wheels and the sea peeks out from behind the olive groves, you feel yourself moving away from routine. The road to Konoba Ferma is not the smoothest, but it is the most direct to what you come here for – silence, delicious food, and a homely warmth that is not learned, but inherited.
Konoba Ferma, located in the Ražanj bay in Sevid (Stari Trogir), is run with a family philosophy that has little to do with modern trends, and everything to do with the logic of what matters. Father and son stand as hosts – the older one with the calm smile of a man who knows how to cook but prefers to stay in the background, and the younger one, in communication and energy, who easily creates an atmosphere of hospitality. The rest of the family is closed off in the kitchen, literally and symbolically, and from there comes most of what will make you want to stay longer than you planned.
At first glance, Ferma does not try to be anything more than what it is: a terrace with a view that needs no filters and a few wooden tables. You don‘t come here for designer details or playlists, but for the feeling that you are at a friend‘s who knows how to cook the best that the sea and land have to offer. Although the ambiance is more than suitable for the place where the tavern is located.
The first thing that arrives at our table is a platter of cold delicacies (€18): marinated sardines, salted anchovies, pickled samphire, smoked tuna, and tuna pâté which, although subtle, is very memorable. The pâté is creamy but not too fatty, with a clear fish flavor and a subtle citrus note. The bread that comes with it is served still hot, with a crispy crust and soft center – typical homemade. Then come the prosciutto and cheese (€13), a combination that does not aim to surprise, but instead offers what a classic should be – the start was promising.
Octopus under the bell (€40 per person) is not the "house specialty" here, at least not in the marketing sense; it is the house standard. And not because it’s spectacularly innovative, but quite the opposite: because it is made exactly as it should be. No tricks, no secrets, just octopus caught by local fishermen, local potatoes, carrots, onions, peppers, olive oil, and red wine. Then – fire, time, and patience. The result is what you recognize the moment your fork touches the meat: the octopus is tender but not overcooked; it holds together, but is easy to divide. The potatoes are soaked with juices, the onion is caramelized, and that sticky layer at the bottom of the bell (the one that clings to the edges and resists the spoon) carries the most flavor. The question "what‘s the secret?" brings a smile to the host‘s face. "There is no secret. Just ingredients that matter." You should definitely order this dish in advance to have it prepared for you.
Grilled squid (€35) are also excellent, firm, juicy, without bitterness or being overcooked, and the roasted vegetables that accompany them (potatoes, peppers, zucchini) have that softness that comes from slow roasting, without oil dominating. All in all, simple but extremely pleasant.
For the end, homemade rafioli with vanilla ice cream (€8). The dough is soft, but with edges firm enough to give structure, the filling is rich, with a combination of ground walnuts, almonds, and a hint of rum, just as tradition dictates. They are served warm, with a little powdered sugar. The portion is more than enough for two people.
What wins you over most at Ferma is not just the food, although it certainly deserves all the praise, but the atmosphere. The kindness here is not learned, not professional, but sincere. Even when the terrace is full, and it can be, especially in August, you are served with patience. Questions about the dishes are met with enthusiasm, but without pretentiousness. You will find out, if you are interested, when the octopus was caught, how the samphire is prepared, and why this particular cheese is served.
You can reach Konoba Ferma by car or by boat. The road is, as locals would say, a bit "bumpy," but not demanding. You will get a parking spot, and if you arrive by sea, the hosts will provide you with a berth. In the end, we are truly glad we visited this family restaurant – the right place for a good meal, a peaceful view, and the feeling that you are part of someone’s family.
P.S. We drank the house wine, malvasia, which was truly excellent, and Testament‘s Plavac mali, to finish. You will definitely find something for yourself here when it comes to "liquid" matters as well.
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