If we told you that somewhere in the world there is a populated place, with 1200 houses, restaurants, cafes, and a shop, where in the first seven months of this year only one, minor crime was recorded, you would probably think it‘s a journalistic invention or you would immediately pack your bags and buy the first plane ticket.
But it really exists.
I first set foot on Silba about fifteen years ago. The tranquility of this island in the Zadar archipelago immediately envelops anyone who steps onto it. It was immediately obvious how locals and guests mutually respect each other, and many have known each other for years. Admittedly, tourism was not as developed then as it is today, only a few taverns and shops were open, but I was fascinated that cars are not allowed to disembark on Silba. Even though the ferry passes by, even if they wanted to, it‘s impossible because of the pillars. And another interesting fact, no one is allowed to ride a bicycle during the summer days, because the streets are narrow and there is a risk of collisions. Only a few mini-tractors that deliver groceries and similar goods are allowed.
New homeowners
I then noticed a small building of the Silba Police Station, which is under the jurisdiction of the Zadar Police Department, and learned that only one police officer lives and works there. It became clear that this is an oasis where there is no crime, violence, murder, beatings, or other crimes that we witness in almost all Croatian settlements, from big cities to small municipalities.
Fifteen years later, the situation on Silba, in terms of tourism, is quite different. Tourism has developed greatly. There are 290 residents living on this island, but that number is increasing as many foreigners are buying houses to enjoy their retirement here. In summer, it gets really crowded, with several thousand tourists circulating around the island. But one thing hasn‘t changed - there is no crime.
- Admittedly, we had one theft in the first seven months of this year - says the head of the Maritime and Airport Police Station Zadar Romano Landeka. They took over jurisdiction over the islands of the Zadar archipelago at the beginning of this year, which turned out to be a very good solution. The fast boats of the Maritime Police are ready to react instantly to any call from the locals, to sanction offenders, and they also cover the nearby islands of Ist, Premuda, and Olib. If necessary, they can stay longer on any of the islands to ensure safety.
- Prevention is key, and the locals have taken the biggest role in that. Silba really is an island where we don‘t record anything serious; in these seven months we‘ve had only one criminal report for theft. We are in constant contact with the locals, who have organized themselves to ensure prevention, and that is crucial. They report everything they find suspicious, and they also have local wardens who make sure nothing bad happens, so safety is guaranteed at all times - Landeka tells us.
Special energy
We walk this island in the middle of the night. The streets are full of tourists, from the youngest, through teenagers, to the oldest, but we don‘t see the usual scenes from tourist hotspots. There are no arguments or fights, no broken bottles or piles of trash, as if a special energy radiates in the place, an energy that makes people calm down, forget about any misdeed, and just enjoy the spectacular sights. Since it is shaped like a figure eight, and the settlement is in the middle, Silba offers guests a view of the mainland on one side and the open sea on the other, all within a few hundred meters. There is also the legendary Marinić‘s tower, also known as the Tower of Love. Legend has it that the sailor Petar Marinić kissed his fiancée Antonija before his journey and promised her that when he returned, he would marry her and plant a garden around the house at the center of which would stand a tower from which the whole island and the sea could be seen. The fiancée did not live to see his return, but her daughter did, for whom he built and dedicated the tower.
Today, many tourists pass through it, and again, as if time stands still. Everyone looks out for each other. If they see someone at the Tower, they will wait a minute, no problem, no crowds or pushing. In the cafes, the music is quiet, there is no wildness or loudness. The kind of peace you can only wish for, we conclude after our walk.
Chief Landeka explains that the locals organized the warden service themselves, which has no repressive powers, but has proven to be extremely effective. It reminds us a little of American movies where suburbs have their own civilians, volunteers who patrol and keep order.
The president of the Silba Local Committee, Saša Lukić, is the coordinator of this unique service. He is also satisfied with the security situation on the island because, as he says, safety is most important, both for the locals and for all well-intentioned guests who want to enjoy the clean air, sea, and the hospitality of the hosts.
- We have excellent cooperation with the Maritime Police, and on our own, according to the authorities of the Local Committee, we established a volunteer service, wardens who ensure everything remains peaceful. This has proven to be an excellent idea - he says.
First a warning and a leaflet
- How does it work - we ask?
- Simple. If we notice someone committing an offense, we warn them. We hand them a leaflet which clearly states which offense they have committed. We have no authority to fine offenders, but most tourists take the notice very seriously. These are mostly minor offenses, but for us on the island, they are important for safety. For example, riding a bicycle or scooter in a pedestrian zone or illegal camping. The latter is especially important to us because illegal camps can lead to fires, which is a big danger for us on the island. If someone still ignores our warning, we call the police, who solve everything in record time - says Lukić, whom we ask how come there was only one criminal offense on the island this whole year.
- Well, there were more last year, during covid and so on...
- So how many?
- There were three, four break-ins into cottages - he answers, and we, hoping he won‘t get mad, start laughing knowing how many such break-ins there are in other places.
Landeka further explains that the wardens are important in situations when the police are actually not needed. For example, if an alarm goes off accidentally, they check if everything is okay and report to the police, who then assess whether they need to react or not, but mostly they don‘t.
Lukić, on the other hand, adds that fire safety, already mentioned, is extremely important, and he points out good cooperation with the county fire brigade, the Volunteer Fire Department, the Zadar Utility Service...
Thus, Silba has become an ideal, almost utopian paradise and a symbiosis of locals, tourists, and the police, all making sure the island remains paradise-like. At the same time, all our interviewees, and we as well, must emphasize once again that on Silba you can certainly relax, but don‘t think that if you commit a crime, you will go unpunished.
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