The presentation of Michelin plaques and awards held this week at St. Ivan Fortress in Šibenik went completely unexpectedly and will surely remain in the memory of all those who attended. Namely, due to a severe storm, the ceremonial award was abruptly interrupted, and some of the winners of this prestigious gastronomic guide‘s stars were deprived of their moment on stage under the spotlight and applause of the gathered guests. But not the Split restaurant Krug, led by Karlo Kaleb. The sky showed them a bit of mercy, and as the first big drops of rain began to fall, they managed to "taste" what it‘s like when colleagues and the industry support you with ovations for your achievement. And for Krug, along with Rovinj‘s Cap Aureo, this year it was a special experience, as 2025 brought them their first Michelin star and a place in the prestigious guide.
In the crowd between chefs, members of their teams, and other guests, with the clinking of glasses, the sounds of sparkling wine being opened, and the occasional applause for those who received their plaques in the congress center rooms at the fortress, we managed to pull Karlo Kaleb away from his celebrating group for a few moments to share his impressions with us after the announcement of the Michelin stars for Croatia, which, as he told us right at the start, he did not expect.
"Honestly, we really didn‘t expect a star. We were doing something we believed was right. From the very beginning, we chose the way and the path we wanted. The idea was to set our own rules of the game from the start. So, we work with suppliers we choose and in the way we want," Kaleb told us.
He emphasized that they didn‘t give up on that, and if at the end of the month they can pay salaries from their work, that is, live from it, they have achieved success.
"Through times that were really quite tough and demanding, even financially, we kept pushing. I was stubborn from the start about not doing aggressive marketing, but letting it go naturally – that a group of people comes, and if they like it, they will tell their friends, then they will come with their friends... and that‘s really how it worked out. Of course, it takes some time. Now that the star happened, everything – let‘s say – took off. People heard about us, everyone wants to come, everyone wants to see how we do it," the Split chef continues.
It‘s especially interesting for everyone to know that Krug operates with only 12 seats in the restaurant.
"Even colleagues ask us how we manage to survive with only 12 seats, but we‘re a small team, three of us in the kitchen and two in service, our pace is intense, but we do what we love. For example, recently we had two days off – Monday because we‘re usually closed and Tuesday because of the Michelin awards, but my dear colleague Ivan Barać was at the restaurant 4–5 times on his days off to check on the sourdough, the bread he bakes, to prepare the fish from the dry ager... And I was also at the restaurant at least four times. And yes, it‘s tough, but the system is such that I do everything personally – from procurement, which I do with my wife, choosing herbs, flowers, vegetables, fruit, visiting producers..." Kaleb explains, emphasizing the importance of personal contact with local producers.
In fact, he says, the Split audience liked it, as their restaurant‘s regular clientele is mostly local guests.
"We had a surprisingly large number of local guests for our type of restaurant. That‘s something we‘re truly proud of."
He also looks at the Michelin star with pride, which was evident as Kaleb and his team climbed the stage to receive the award. He told us that it‘s a reward for everything they‘ve done so far.
"After all, it‘s recognition from the profession, which recognized our way and business model, which is quite specific. It‘s nice, really nice," says Kaleb, who studied under the great Hrvoje Zirojević, worked for years as head chef on exclusive yachts, and interned with Eric Kragh Vildgaard at the Danish restaurant Jordnær**.
When asked where he sees himself in five years, he says: "I think we‘ll continue in the same direction. We were rewarded for what we‘ve been doing so far, so it‘s clear we should keep going that way. Of course, we always strive and will strive to be better. After all, every menu change has been, for me, a step up, so I‘m proud from that side too because it‘s a step forward, as there is no stagnation, and that‘s what keeps us alive and pushes us forward. So, we‘re definitely continuing on the same path."
When he talks about the cuisine and dishes from his restaurant, he especially highlights one after the snacks, which – in his words – they‘ve changed about ten times since March. He mentions this to emphasize how important it is to follow the seasonality of ingredients, not the seasons of the year. Furthermore, he highlights the introductory bite as the only dish that hasn‘t changed since the beginning. It‘s a snack that opens dinner in the form of Adriatic shrimp marinated in a maraschino solution, then placed in a crispy basket like a small tartlet, then fermented cherries from his colleague Barać‘s garden are added. Then they add their homemade mascarpone and top the whole bite with a fan of pickled kohlrabi and caviar.
"We change the menu depending on the availability of ingredients. Now, for example, we ran out of kale. I went to Marjan to get some, but the lady simply didn‘t have any and then I had to change the dish. We often have to react in the moment and adapt," Kaleb tells us.
He says he doesn‘t compromise on ingredients – they must be checked, the best.
"No, I‘m not. I have a set vision of what I want. Of course, along the way, you use social and emotional intelligence, you see where you need to make some concessions and compromises so the team doesn‘t suffer, so the guest doesn‘t suffer. But never at the expense of quality. We have 12 seats and I think that must be respected. Someone gives you their time or, ultimately, their money, and I think the least we can do is ensure those people have nice memories, that they leave with a good memory. I think that‘s hospitality.
Finally, as the only Split restaurant with a Michelin, we ask Kaleb if he thinks Split deserves another star.
"This is a very tough question. (long silence) I think the restaurants that deserved it received that recognition."
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