SHORT HISTORY
Natural, organic, biodynamic: these are all wines created with minimal human intervention. The very term natural wine often sparks debates. Critics will say that wine does not arise independently in nature, which is true. However, this overlooks the key point: we are not talking about wine as a product of nature, but about a natural process of making wine. It is a conscious decision by winemakers to follow, not force, nature: from ecological grape growing without pesticides and herbicides, through harvest, to spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts and preserving the wine without unnecessary additives.
Although the foundations of this approach are as old as winemaking itself, the modern movement against industrialization began in France, in the Beaujolais region, in the mid-20th century. As wine writer Aaron Ayscough writes in his fantastic book The World of Natural Wine, the movement was shaped by scientist and winemaker Jules Chauvet and a group of winemakers known as the "Gang of Four" (Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, Charly Thévenet, and Guy Breton), who put Chauvet’s ideas of wine without chemicals into practice. Of course, the philosophical roots go even deeper, for example to Rudolph Steiner, whose teachings on biodynamics are applied by many winemakers today.
From Beaujolais, the philosophy quickly spread to the Loire Valley, where winemakers like Nicolas Joly became leaders of the biodynamic approach, and then to the rest of the world. Global expansion was aided by specialized fairs such as the legendary La Dive Bouteille and enthusiastic importers who introduced these wines to a new audience.
Almost simultaneously, while the French scene was booming, further east, on the hills of the Italian region Friuli-Venezia Giulia, right on the border with Slovenia, another revolution was being born. Inspired by ancient techniques and driven by a desire for authentic expression, winemakers Joško Gravner and Stanko Radikon became pioneers of modern amber (orange) wine. In the mid-1990s, both turned to old methods of long macerations of white varieties, such as the indigenous rebula (Ribolla Gialla), reviving a wine style that was almost forgotten. Their work, described in detail in the cult book Amber Revolution by Simon J. Woolf, laid the foundation for the global popularity of this fourth wine style.
In Croatia, we also have winemakers who have been practicing natural methods for decades. Among the pioneers stand out the Miloš family from Pelješac, who have been producing organic wines for over 30 years, and Ivan Enjingi in Slavonia. Although Enjingi is not a "natural winemaker," his uncompromising ecological approach and use of indigenous yeasts have been ahead of their time for decades, as evidenced by the beautiful biography Enjingi by Željko Garmaz. Today, the Croatian scene counts more and more winemakers following this philosophy, creating a vibrant map from east to south. On Plešivica, alongside visionaries like the Tomac family, the Šember family also stands out. In Istria, names such as Piquentum, Clai, Trapan, Ghiro, and Rawina join the natural stream, along with many others. On Pelješac, alongside Miloš, the scene is shaped by wineries Križ and Bartulović, while in Slavonia, new paths are being paved by Sontacchi. In the rest of Hilly Croatia, the leaders are wineries Kosovec and the biodynamic winery Glavica.
It is also crucial to distinguish between three terms: natural, organic, and biodynamic winemaking. Organic winemaking means cultivation without synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers, confirmed by official certificates. Biodynamic goes a step further, viewing the vineyard as a whole, living organism connected with the rhythms of nature and the cosmos, and Demeter is the best-known certificate for such practice. Natural, however, has no clear definition. Simply put, it is an approach guided by the idea of "nothing added, nothing taken away."
WHY NATURAL (as little intervention as possible)?
Now that we‘ve gone through a short history, the key question remains: why choose natural wines? The answer lies in a few simple but important reasons.
First and foremost, natural wines are healthier because they are produced without synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers. No industrial yeasts, color and aroma additives are used in the cellar, and the amount of added sulfites is minimal or none. This means you are drinking pure, fermented grape juice, without unnecessary chemicals.
They are also more honest. Without technological interventions that would hide flaws or standardize the taste, natural wine is the pure expression of its terroir: the specific place where the grapes grew. It tells the story of the soil, climate, and harvest year in a unique and unrepeatable way.
Finally, natural wines are more alive. They are full of energy, vibrancy, and sometimes unpredictability that makes them exciting. Yes, they can vary from bottle to bottle, but it is precisely this imperfection that proves their authenticity. By supporting natural winemakers, you also support biodiversity, sustainable agriculture, and small, family producers who resist mass production.
Below, we bring you a guide to places in Croatia where you can explore and enjoy the diverse world of natural wines. There aren’t many, so in larger cities we’ll focus on wine bars, while in smaller places also on venues that prepare food.
ZAGREB
Bastion no19.
The cult bar Bastion No. 19 on Masarykova Street has been an unavoidable place for all wine lovers for a whole decade, especially those who appreciate the natural approach. It is a venue that made a pioneering venture, persisting for years as almost the only Zagreb bar dedicated to natural wines at a time when it was a rather brave and risky move.
The foundations of the recognizable wine orientation were laid by the first sommelier Milan Rukavina. The scene was further enriched by the return of hospitality legend Marin Čuček and his charming "Jutarnji Pajzl" program, while the current key figure is sommelier Eric Romolock. Eric not only launched the extremely popular "wine.klub" for enthusiasts, but also continuously refreshes the bar‘s offer.
The wine list has recently been further enriched with new, interesting labels that are well worth a visit to Masarykova 19. With its quality and loyalty to its faithful audience, Bastion has successfully overcome all challenges and remained firmly anchored as one of the most important addresses for top drinks in the city.
Address: Masarykova ul. 19, Zagreb
Aha! Slow Wine Bar
Aha! slow wine bar, although a relatively new player on the Zagreb scene, quickly became one of the key addresses for all those exploring the world of natural wines. From the very opening, this bar stood out with an offer that brought a host of labels and winemakers to Croatia that were previously unknown to the local public – making it rightly the most exciting wine bar in Croatia.
The driving force behind the bar is owner Tino Pattiera, who personally curates the wine list and tirelessly brings in interesting winemakers, with a special focus on the Italian natural scene. Helping him create a unique experience and pleasant atmosphere is Marion Aubert, a Frenchwoman with a Zagreb address, whose passion for wines rounds out the whole story.
The offer is impressive and includes a wide range of natural wines from Croatia, Italy, Spain, France, and other world regions. The bar is extremely dynamic, and Tino often organizes visits from renowned winemakers, allowing visitors to meet producers and their philosophies firsthand.
As they have announced many more visits and events, we recommend you closely follow their Instagram profile. Whether you are an experienced connoisseur or just entering the world of natural wines, Aha! is a great place to discover new flavors and enjoy a relaxed atmosphere.
Address: Medulićeva ul. 20, Zagreb
RIJEKA
Fino Vino
Fino Vino is actually a hybrid of a wine shop and a wine bar. Located in the city center, the bar offers a cozy and homey atmosphere, and what sets it apart is an impressive wine list that stands out from the rest of the city‘s offerings. A large wall filled with bottles offers a range of top Croatian winemakers such as Tomac, Šember, Piquentum, Clai, Miloš...
A special part is also dedicated to foreign natural and biodynamic wines, including labels like Czech Nestarec, Austrian Muster and Meinklang, and Serbian Maurer. It is important to note that not all wines on the list are exclusively natural or with minimal intervention, but the selection is intriguing enough to make it well worth a visit. Along with a rich wine selection, they also serve suitable snacks such as cheese and olive oil.
As mentioned, Fino Vino also functions as a wine shop, so you can definitely take a bottle or two home. Owner Igor and his team will make sure you leave the bar satisfied, and it is precisely this approach to guests, along with an excellent wine selection, that currently makes them one of the most knowledgeable and interesting wine places in Rijeka.
Address: Trg Matije Vlačića Flaciusa 2, Rijeka
LOVRAN
Peperoncino
Peperoncino is not a classic wine bar, but a charming wine shop located in a beautiful, stone street in the very heart of Lovran’s old town. Although primarily a shop, it offers the possibility to taste wines on the spot, making it a great place for all wine lovers. The space is rustically decorated and blended into the local life, offering an exciting selection of natural and organic wines as well as other gastronomic delicacies such as top olive oils and local products.
They are especially known for their selection of labels that are not always easy to find in Croatia, such as Radikon, Prinčić, Nikolaus... Their passion for natural wines is also visible through their active role in the local scene; owner Edi Jakupović is one of the co-organizers of the wine festival Lovran Unfiltered, dedicated precisely to natural winemakers.
If you get hungry, just a few steps away is the restaurant Ganeum, which is certainly one of the best restaurants in the area. Ganeum also maintains a wine list with an emphasis on minimal intervention wines, and their team, together with the owner of Peperoncino, is responsible for launching the mentioned festival, confirming the strong connection and passion of the local food and wine scene.
Address: Stari Grad 13, Lovran
PULA
Wine Bar Sorsi
Wine bar Sorsi, located on Maksimijanova Street in Pula, is leading the change on the local scene as the only place in the city dedicated exclusively to natural wines. Owner Edi Perenić, driven by enthusiasm and the desire to offer something different, created an uncompromising concept in an environment traditionally more inclined to classic wines. His bold move paid off, and since its opening in 2023, Sorsi has become an essential spot for wine lovers.
The philosophy of the bar is based on accessibility, so prices encourage tasting and enjoyment. The wine list is dynamic and lively, and Edi proudly supports local Istrian stars like Piquentum, Rawina, and Atim, but also offers great labels from other regions. The best advice when visiting is always to ask if there’s anything new, as the best bottles are often hidden off the official list.
The offer is rounded off with small, fresh daily dishes that change weekly, specialty coffee from the local roastery Bora Nera, and selected cocktails, confirming Sorsi’s status as a place with a clear vision and character.
Address: Maksimijanova ul. 19, Pula
PRIMOŠTEN
Peškafondo
The wine bar Peškafondo in Primošten opened in 2016, and already in 2018 it boldly and quite early for the local scene shifted its offer towards natural wines. Their approach is based on supporting small local producers, which is also reflected in the name of the bar – ‘Peškafondo‘ is the name for a squid fishing tool and symbolizes their desire to "draw out" the best and most authentic from producers.
The wine list is neatly structured. There is a special emphasis on the indigenous Babić from the Primošten-Rogoznica area, and the main offer consists of natural wines: from still whites and reds to pét-nats and amber wines. Although they also have some conventional wines, that number is negligible. You will certainly find some wonderful labels for yourself, from foreign ones such as Nestarec, Italian La Stoppa and Weingut Bianka und Daniel Schmitt, but also small domestic winemakers they put in the spotlight to support them.
Although they operate seasonally, Peškafondo offers a complete story and experience. In the morning they serve breakfast, and in the evening the bar also functions as a cocktail bar, making it an excellent destination in Primošten at any time of day.
Address: Trg Biskupa J. Arnerića 9, Primošten
SPLIT
Zeru Wine Showroom
Split recently got its first specialized place dedicated to natural wines – Zeru Wine Showroom. This is not a classic wine bar, but a concept that combines a wine shop and a tasting space, creating a relaxed place for anyone interested in the world of low-intervention wines.
The atmosphere is deliberately relaxed. Instead of classic service, guests walk among the shelves themselves, explore the offer, and start conversations with the staff who are there to help with recommendations. The focus is on an offer that includes winemakers from Croatia, Italy, Austria, Hungary, and Slovenia. On the shelves, you can find renowned names of the natural scene such as Vinas Mora, Podrum Franjo, Piquentum, Keltis, Nittnaus, Pranzegg, and Heinrich.
Zeru is conceived as a meeting point for the curious and wine lovers, ideal for a visit during summer afternoons with a glass of refreshing pét-nat. Since it is a new and unique place in the city, it is definitely worth visiting and exploring what it offers.
Address: Smiljanićeva 2, Split
Parasol - food and bar
The owners of the popular Split Adriatic Social Club have opened the Parasol bistro in the heart of Diocletian‘s Palace, a place that combines their passion for music and food & wine. Although it is a bistro, Parasol is an excellent destination for wine lovers, as natural wines make up over 50% of the wine list, and a good bite alongside never hurts.
The offer is wide, so in addition to a carefully selected wine list, with an emphasis on local labels and selected bottles from Italy, Spain, and France, you can also try excellent signature cocktails. The concept encourages socializing, so with a glass of wine or a cocktail, you can share simple and interesting Mediterranean dishes.
Parasol has already shown that it is a dynamic place that is alive all year round, organizing interesting themed evenings such as popular Jazz nights. As they constantly announce new events and guest appearances, it is best to follow their Instagram profile to stay up to date with all the news.
Address: Adamova ul 5, Split
BRAČ
Bistro Debuleca
Bistro Debuleca in Sutivan on the island of Brač is a place that has undergone a great transformation. Opened a few years ago, it initially functioned as a side project of the Bokuncin tavern, but last year it received the full attention of the owners and came to life with a new, exciting concept focused on natural offerings.
Their daily rhythm is divided into two parts. Until 2 p.m., the focus is on a serious brunch with seasonal ingredients, homemade sourdough bread, and specialty coffee. Although the emphasis is on food, guests can also enjoy a glass of good wine during the day. In the evening, Debuleca turns into a charming place to relax with signature cocktails and various natural wines.
The wine list is carefully selected and offers a diverse choice of domestic and foreign natural winemakers, making it an essential stop for all lovers of this scene on the island. In addition, the bistro often organizes special music and wine evenings, so it is recommended to follow their social networks to stay up to date with all the news.
Address: Obala kralja Tomislava 27, Sutivan
DUBROVNIK
M‘arden Dubrovnik
M‘arden is a very charming place in Dubrovnik, located in a hidden Mediterranean garden at Ulica od Domina 8. Although a good part of the wine offer is conventional, M‘arden also has a special selection dedicated to natural wines. There you can find labels of renowned winemakers such as Tomac, Mlečnik, Nestarec, Bibich, Trapan, as well as some from the Križ winery and many others.
In addition to wine, M‘arden offers an enticing gastronomic experience. The kitchen is led by chef Ante Dropuljić, whose dishes are based on fresh Mediterranean ingredients. But if you just want to enjoy a glass of top wine and soak up the atmosphere of the beautiful garden, this is the perfect place for that. What sets them apart is the fact that they are a rare example of a place where every wine can be ordered by the glass. For a complete experience and help with selection, there are sommeliers Niko Grubišić and owner Ana Bitanga.
Year after year they are growing and it seems they will only further enrich their offer, so they deserve a warm recommendation if you find yourself in Dubrovnik.
Address: Ul. od Domina 8, Dubrovnik
Although we have listed only ten places here, it is important to emphasize that this is not a final list. The natural wine scene in Croatia is slowly but surely growing, and more and more restaurants and bars are recognizing the value and uniqueness of these labels and including them in their offer. Still, there are too few specialized places.
We hope this guide will only expand in the future with new names and addresses. Whether restaurateurs see it as a noble goal to support small winemakers and sustainable agriculture or simply recognize a growing global trend, opening new places dedicated to natural wines would be a great move. The audience for different, more honest, and livelier wines clearly exists and is just waiting to be offered more.
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