There is a moment, a very special one, when the anchor is no longer just a piece of iron, but a key to entering another world. That moment begins when the boat heads towards some remote cove, far from everything, where signposts disappear and the map is no longer of much help. Because here, among the beautiful Mediterranean islands, there still exist those unreal places where, while enjoying a glass of wine and good food, we fully understand that Dalmatian saying – "who could pay for this?" These are places where, at the entrance, you are not greeted by a hostess with a tablet, but by an old man on the pier, calmly rolling a cigarette and quietly muttering: "Yes, there‘s fish today. If you come on time." Of course, these are hidden taverns and restaurants for sailors, where the sea and the plate meet without filters. Where what is caught in the morning is already sizzling on the grill by noon. Where olive oil is not just an ingredient, but liquid gold harvested by the host‘s hand. There is no linear menu here, only a riddle: "What do we have today?", and the answer, always the same, yet never boring: "What the sea gives."
These places are not restaurants in the traditional sense. They are small refuges where food is not a product, but an extension of the landscape. Where lunch lasts as long as the conversation, the wine, and the tide. Where, between appetizers and the main course, you have time to swim, dive, and return to the table still wet, with the taste of salt on your lips and a gaze that reaches the horizon. There is no delivery here, nor "fast options". There is only time and people who approach cooking just as they approach the sea: with respect, patience, and love. And so, when you raise the anchor and head to these coves, know that you are on the right path. A path that leads not only to good food, but also to something we have long forgotten in the cities. To simplicity. To silence. To life in its purest form. These are stories about those places. About taverns that are not advertised daily on social media, but are well known. About people who do not cook to impress, but to nourish – both our bodies and our souls. So, tie the ropes. We‘re off.
KONOBA ROJEN, LUKE COVE, BRAČ
If you are among those who still believe that there is that primal, simple tavern on the islands, without unnecessary modern additions and needless kitsch on the plate, then Konoba Rojen is the right place for you. Located in the peaceful cove of Luke, right across from the village of Povlja on the northern coast of Brač, this is an address sailors often love to visit. Rojen is a tavern of which very few remain on the Adriatic. One that reminds you of older, slower times. There are no fusions, foams or essences here, just pure, honest food. Fish from the net, lamb from the grill, olive oil from the neighborhood, wine from their own vineyard. Simple, as it should be. The terrace covered with a thick "odrina" provides shade during hot days, and in front of you there is only the sea, boats at mooring, and the sound of waves. There is no overthinking on the menu. Fish is always available depending on the catch, and for those who love meat, it‘s hard to do better than grilled lamb, especially if you come with a larger group.
KONOBA SENKO, MALA TRAVNA, VIS
If your journey takes you to the south side of Vis, between Stiniva and Srebrna, you‘ll come across a small cove surrounded by white rocks, called Mala Travna. There, for over thirty years, lives and cooks Senko Karuza, a writer, winemaker, and chef who runs one of the most unique places on the Adriatic. Senko‘s tavern is a true Robinson Crusoe story, without electricity, without pomp, without rush. Everything is subordinated to the sea, nature, and good food. The menu is not something you get on paper, but what the sea and the island provide that day. On the plate awaits you the pure essence of the Mediterranean, from soup made from smoked catshark (or "maška", as people from Komiža say), with limpets and capers, through pasta and beans in brodetto, to real fish stew, always lightly smoked with a sprig of rosemary. Of course, there is also grilled fish, which smells of the sea and herbs, and for dessert – kroštule, because some traditions must remain sweet. Besides that, Senko is also an excellent winemaker, so you will drink something from his own barrel. This is a place you do not come to by accident, but on purpose. And you always come back to it.
KONOBA TRITON, ZAKLOPATICA COVE, LASTOVO
If you find yourself near Lastovo, Zaklopatica cove is an unmissable stop. There, right on the waterfront, literally just above the sea, sits the charming family tavern – Triton. The place operates almost exclusively on a reservation basis. As soon as ten or fifteen boats dock on the waterfront, the sign with the name of the tavern is taken down. That‘s the sign they‘re full. If you arrive without a reservation, you can only book for tomorrow. Here everything is subordinated to food, but not just any food. Everything is made by their own hands – fish from nets, traps, or spearfishing, vegetables from their own fields, herbs from the island. Olive oil comes from family olive groves, wine from their vineyards. Capers are a special story – they grow everywhere, and here they are so important that they‘re in almost every dish. In marinades, sauces, stews, even in the vinegar used to season salads. There are also shallots, onions – all pickled at home. And the fish? Dried tabinja, rolled sardines and anchovies with capers, salted bonito and tuna. In the yard behind the house grow lemons and oranges, which are not just for decoration but also serve as seasoning in many dishes. Lastovo is a special story anyway, and Triton is yet another proof that this island knows how to preserve its own – both in the kitchen and on the table.
KONOBA VIDROVAČA, VIDROVAČA COVE BILICE, BILICE
Hidden lagoons have always been a magnet for sailors, and Vidrovača, located deep in the greenery along the banks of the Krka River, is one of those corners you discover once and remember forever. It can only be reached by sea, and if you don‘t have your own boat, in Skradin a speedboat awaits to take you straight to the restaurant – in the middle of a natural oasis, far from the crowds. Konoba Vidrovača is a family restaurant run by the Petrović family, with a long tradition and regular guests who return year after year. The menu is dominated by fish and seafood, as befits such a place. Oysters from the Krka to start, then small white fish, freshly caught and prepared on the spot. Then vongole with pasta, and after that what everyone raves about here, fish on the grill. Most often dentex, which comes to the table perfectly roasted, with the classic, unbeatable side dish of Swiss chard and potatoes. Although the emphasis is on fish, meat lovers won‘t go hungry here – beef steak, rump steak, rib-eye or t-bone on the grill, it‘s all on the menu. With that goes a glass of homemade Debit, and the wine list offers a serious selection of Croatian wines, logically, with most labels from Dalmatia. Vidrovača is open seasonally, from May to October.
RESTAURANT VILA VELEBITA, SILBA
If your journey (or better said, the sea) brings you to Silba, Restaurant Vila Velebita is one of those places worth marking on your nautical map. A small, family-run restaurant with a long tradition and a view that‘s hard to forget, straight onto the calm cove of Šipanska Luka. Here the rule applies: whoever doesn‘t reserve can easily be left without a table. The reason is simple – everything that comes to the plate comes from the sea. The menu consists exclusively of fresh seafood, seasonal fish, and shellfish. There are no unnecessary decorations here, just simple and perfectly prepared food. The ambiance is intimate, romantic... and the wine list offers an enviable selection of domestic labels, especially from Dalmatia. Mr. Svetimir Lovrović, the owner and initiator of the whole story, started this business back in 1971. Today, knowledge and passion for cooking are slowly being passed on to the younger generation, but the main link in the kitchen is still his wife. The restaurant operates seasonally, only in summer, and even then with a break between 4 and 6 pm. After all, this is a place where every meal becomes a small gastronomic ritual, so it‘s no wonder that sometimes you need to take a little break.
GASTRO MARE KOBAŠ, KOBAŠ COVE, PELJEŠAC
Hidden coves always have a special charm, and Kobaš on Pelješac is a well-known address among sailors. Right by the sea is Gastro Mare, a restaurant that combines the simplicity of Mediterranean life with seriously considered gastronomy. Moorings, a beach bar, and showers are always ready for guests, and the restaurant is open from morning until evening. So you can start the day with coffee on the waterfront and end it with fresh fish and a glass of wine as the sun sets behind the hills. The kitchen is based on the philosophy – "from the garden and sea to the table".
Everything cooked here grows or swims around Pelješac. Ante Toni and Maja, the owners, produce their own olive oil, vegetables come from their garden or from local family farms, and the fish is from their own catch – nets are literally drying in front of the restaurant, and the fishing boat is always moored. There are no compromises here. Whatever cannot be sourced locally is simply not offered. The result is dishes that taste of the sea, salt, sun, and Pelješac. Gastro Mare, just like our other recommendations, is not just a restaurant, but a place where food is cooked with soul, and every plate tells a story about this piece of the Mediterranean.
RESTAURANT BOWA, VRBOVA COVE, ŠIPAN
On the south side of Šipan, hidden from view and noise, lies Vrbova cove, and in it Bowa, a place that is not just a restaurant but a true little oasis for hedonists. You don‘t come here by accident, but with a clear intention to slow down, rest, and enjoy the superb combination of nature, sea, and gastronomy. Bowa is designed as an elegant Robinson-style retreat, with several wooden pavilions and stone houses built right by the sea, under the branches of pine, olive, and fig trees. Each table offers complete privacy, and the view of the turquoise lagoon never gets old. The kitchen relies exclusively on what the island and sea can provide.
Fresh fish, shellfish, crabs – all from the nets of local fishermen, vegetables and fruit from Šipan gardens, and olive oil from family olive groves. Bowa offers our favorite seasonal cuisine, told through a modern approach but without losing authenticity. The ritual here includes a long lunch that can easily turn into an entire day. Between courses, you can jump into the sea, rest in deck chairs, or simply watch the waves. Food, wine, the scents of the island, and the sound of the sea create an experience that is long remembered. After all, just like every oasis for sailors – Bowa is a place for those who know how to enjoy.
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